Verdun

I could stay here. I thought this part of the journey would be head down and motor till the trip starts properly in the Alps. Verdun was not on the plan but the name, and the history, coming at the right point in time and distance proved too attractive.

My hotel is ott. Prompted by worries over bike security, almost certainly unfounded, I spent more than I’d planned and bought into a bit of luxury. A Grand hotel on the Meuse.

Last night was wandering round, drinking wine and eating local food. I made the same mistake again, buying peasant food. In this case Anduillette. Basically pigs intestines and offal in a sausage. I’ve no idea what possessed me. The romance of a busy side street restaurant serving local food. But local food is usually born out of poverty and the poor do not eat cake – despite encouragement.

However, it adds to the experience. This morning I’ve been for coffee and a croissant – two things bought separately as I’ve found the early cafes do one thing and let the patisserie do theirs. It’s beautifully warm and the city is lovely on its river. It is wrapped in its history, the battles that killed over 300,000 French men in the Great War. Monuments and museums are everywhere. This is their Somme. I’d happily stay and explore but the mountains are calling. I will go and pay my respects at the main monument as I leave. It’s a little way out of town, but I’d happily stay and explore. Turns out the journey has already started!