In an earlier piece, I described how this trip was inspired by Stanley Tucci. Or, to be more accurate, by his series exploring the food of the different Italian regions. Mr Tucci is a consummate communicator, witty, urbane, knowledgeable and enthusiastic. He also comes from an Italian legacy, speaks the language and has the empathy that comes from being brought up in the culture: he misled me.
There have been two, maybe three memorable meals so far in Italy. One was in Cozensa, a working town midway between my stop in Puglia and Messina where I crossed to Sicily. It was just a point on a map, convenient, accessible and no more than that. It turned out to be a memorable stay because it wasn’t on the tourist route so there was nothing laid on for the visitor, a bit like Anzio was. There I picked a cafe/restaurant at random and had an amazing pasta dish. This is it and it tasted divine. The chillis by the way were to let you set the heat.
The second was a simple salad, pears, green bits, goats cheese and walnuts served in a cardboard bowl that I had alongside a Sicilian beer. That place was next to a posh restaurant I had been to the night before. I’d had a beer there then too, waiting for my place in the posh place to come free. As I told the young waiter, I had a better night at the second place. The salad was fine, nothing special, but the staff were superb, young and funny. No pretentiousness. No “we would like to give you a personal gift Sir” before bringing on the Limoncello, which you knew would end the meal anyway, just fun.
For the rest? Meh. In Fredo, Puglia, I was recommended to eat at the Agritourismo but I arrived and it was in darkness so I motored on and found a local restaurant by the sea. I had mussels and then a pasta dish. I was the only English voice there. The day before, I had a pizza at a local cafe. I chose, at the waitress’s suggestion, from their specials. It was fine. Staying at a remote B&B near Etna I went the restaurant recommended by the owner. It was the local favourite by all accounts. It was also titled ‘Nona’s Trattoria’ and if an Italian is drafting in the revered Nan then I was expecting great things. The setting was beautiful, we were all sat outside with those stringy lights. ‘We’ in this case included, from what I could see, the cast of every Godfather film and Italian stereotype imaginable. There were beautiful couples and many tables with at least seven generations of the family celebrating some event. Perfect. Then the waitress brought the menu and I was faced with 50 variations of Pizza including ones with Chips (as part of not with the Pizza) and chicken – which is an absolute no. I had mixed grill. Meat, cooked on a grill.
I am not complaining. My point is that unless a Michelin starred chef personally drives your to a farm where they have made the same buffalo mozzarella since Nero was a thing and then said Chef uses said buffalo mozzarella to cook you a meal there and then, you’re probably not going to have the same experience as Mr Tucci. The chef at your Tripadviser recommended Ristorante, turning over 200 covers a night because it is a Tripadviser recommended restaurant, is unlikely to give you the same care and attention that Stanley gets. Oh, and you won’t be richer after the meal than you were before – another difference.
Heading away from the tourist hotspots wont bring you guaranteed joy either as my examples show. Here’s something that you might not have thought of. When you go to an Italian restaurant in Italy, you’re likely to eat the food that your local Italian restaurant serves, made by someone who, if they were back in Italy, would be serving the same thing. There is a pizza place near my home, Little Furnace, that makes better pizza than anything I have had over here. There is an Italian restaurant in Guildford that is fabulous. You get my point.
The thing is, Stanley’s journey through Italy, supported by researchers, set up in advance, hand-picked, isn’t real life. When Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman decided to go round the world on motorbikes, the first thing they did – the FIRST thing – was to hire two secretaries. Then rent a garage, then blag everything for free. Bikes, gear etc. Snap-On tools sent them EACH a monogrammed full tool kit. I mean a proper multi drawer, every tool you can imagine, toolkit. Then they set off round the world with a film crew and a two back up vehicles. NOT REAL LIFE.
The danger is that you expect the perfect – as presented on TV – moment, the hand picked Tropea onions, the once in a generation cheese, and are disappointed: that would be sad. The food in Nona’s wasn’t great but the conversation with the waitress was fun, and the atmosphere on the terrace was great. The mussels at the seaside restaurant in Puglia were very average but the ride back in the evening, in shirt sleeves in myrtle scented air was lovely. I have learnt to take Tripadviser with a pinch of salt (its a self fulfilling prophecy after all) and to take a chance. Italian food can be wonderful. Eating it in Italy adds to the experience and that’s what you should focus on, where you are, who your with, what it feels like and smells like and sounds like. If your lucky, the food will meet the dream too but don’t fret too much if it doesn’t. And don’t expect Stanley Tucci to be at the next table.
peteryder2003 